En esta entrada os contamos nuestra experiencia haciendo psicobloc en Mallorca; cómo hacer psicobloc, dónde hacer psicobloc en Mallorca, cuales son los. The deep water soloing (known locally as Psicobloc) is well developed and excellen. DWS or Psicobloc in Mallorca. Featured in. The place was Porto Pi and this became Mallorca’s first bouldering venue. Miquel continued his obsession with Psicobloc by opening new.

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Throughout the s, sport climbing grew in popularity, and bouldering along with Psicobloc faded into the background. Miquel continued his obsession with Psicobloc by opening new areas and putting up new lines. He published many articles with the Spanish climbing press and tried to entice anyone he could to try this new style of climbing. The Miquel Riera Collection. It introduced an evolved grading system and a whole new approach to climbing in Britain.

Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca

InBritish climber Tim Emmett received an email from Miquel showing a picture of Cova Del Diablo in all its glory which triggered a major international visit by some strong climbers. Shortly after in February Mike Robertson published his article ‘Sympathy for the Devil’ in British magazine ‘Climber’ describing the venue along with details of all twenty-nine psicoblooc on the cliff.

This trip also introduced Toni Lamprecht to the island, which resulted in a vast number of new lines being established, chiefly at Cala Barques. A short film was released by Udo Neumann, which artistically portrayed the exploration of the east coast, and additionally Josh Lowell’s short film ‘Psicobloc’, documented Tim Emmett and Klem Loskot’s experiences on the first trip to the island mallorda Cala Barques; Photo by Daimon Beail. Inspired by the latter film, world-renowned climber Chris Sharma soon took his first trip to Mallorca in With an on sight flash of ‘Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels’ under his belt, he began to put up more and more challenging lines at the top end of the grade spectrum.

A number of other hard lines began to emerge in various locations, of which one of the more impressive was Klem Loskot’s route ‘Hupolup Kempf’, 8b S2which crossed one of the largest roofs to be found at Cala Sa Nau.


Further south saw Miquel Riera return to Cala Serena with friends, to establish almost new routes within the space of a month.

I started developing a small guide to the island’s Deep Water Soloing venues, which at that time was poorly documented and hard to find. In the early part ofthe sad news hit the climbing world that Damian Cook, a well-known and highly-respected figure in the Dorset’s climbing community, had been killed whilst soloing alone at Porto Cristo in challenging conditions.

This shocked the climbing world and emphasised that Deep Water Soloing could hold fatal consequences. Josh Lowell released a collection of short films under the banner Dosage Vol 2 in This included a slightly enhanced version of the film ‘Psicobloc’ now renamed ‘Psicobloc Part paicobloc and also a new film called ‘Psicobloc Part 2’, which documents some of Chris Sharma’s first visit to the island in The spotlight turned to Porto Colom in as Miquel introduced Chris Sharma, Toni Lamprecht and a number of international climbers to the venue.

After a short time, the Porto Colom lighthouse area had a good number of lines and shortly after psiicobloc a favourite venue for many a soloist who knew of its location. Chris mallorac to work an incredibly steep and imposing line on the underside of the arch which at that time became known as the arch project. Chris made some dramatic progress the following month by catching mzllorca dyno and exiting on the seaward psciobloc of the arch.

Psicobloc en Mallorca para principiantes | Non gogoa han zangoa

Dissatisfied with this, he began working a right hand finish to the line that would exit on psicobbloc landward side and tackle the very powerful upper lip. Chris soon realized that although this line was possible, it was very much at his limit and if done might push the boundaries of climbing once again.

The same year, German filmmaker Mal,orca Neumann released the documentary ‘Psicobloc ,’ giving viewers an insight into the previous year’s developments regarding soloing malorca Mallorca.

In September of the same year, the world of Deep Water Soloing changed forever. Chris Sharma completed the right hand finish to the line that climbed underside of the Es Pontas arch, and rumours spread of a magical ‘9b’ being associated with its difficulty.

Even though this grade has never been confirmed, due to the lack of psicoloc repeat at time of writing it was certainly the hardest Deep Water Solo in the world.


Mallorca began to receive a vast amount of media interest after Chris’s accent of the now named ‘Es Pontas’, highlighted by Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer’s film ‘King Lines,’ which captured Chris Sharma making that first ascent and thrust Deep Water Soloing once again into the spotlight.

In March a new and fully comprehensive Rockfax guide was released, expanding and updating all things climbable on Mallorca.

It is also the first time all the soloing areas are in one book together with all of Mallorca’s sport climbing crags.

What Miquel started all those years ago is now attracting climbers from all over the world, and still today climbers are discovering and expanding what Mallorca has to offer. Mallorca Feb The edition of the Mallorca guidebook contains full sport climbing and deep water soloing information to the island of Mallorca.

The Mediterranean island of Mallorca is now well-known as a sport climbing destination. Since the last Rockfax init has also established itself as the home of Europe’s best deep water soloing.

This latest edition of the Mallorca Rockfax our 6th Mallorca publication psicbloc 15 years! The psicoloc is in the new glorious full-colour format and features many new crag and action photos. The sport climbing is being written by Alan James and Mark Glaister, and the deep water soloing section is being written by Daimon Beail.

Toni Lamprecht; Photo by Rasmus Kaessmann; www. Climber magazine front cover Feb ; Photo by Mike Robertson. The edition of the Mallorca guidebook contains full sport climbing and deep water soloing information to the island of Mallorca.

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Psicobloc en Mallorca para principiantes

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